This listing complies with the store's air gun guidelines found here and I
will only sell and ship air guns to buyers in jurisdictions where permitted by
applicable laws -
http://pages..com/help/policies/firearms-weapons-knives.html
This listing is for one custom pivot pin with nut, other parts shown for
reference only.
PLEASE READ THE NOTES AND INSTRUCTIONS BELOW, THIS PART REQUIRES TOOLS AND
FITTING.
This part is made of super-strong grade 12.9 alloy steel. The pin fits a
3/32" hex, the 12-point socket of the nut fits a 3/16" hex wrench, no hex
wrenches or other tools included. These parts have a durable black-oxide
finish, the pin-shaft is polished raw steel. The pin has a shoulder that stops
the nut at 3/4" which is the same as the outside tube diameter, this prevents
the front of the tube from expanding when force is applied to the pump-lever
and also prevents over-compressing the front of the tube. This is the strongest
and most stable pin design available in the industry.
IMPORTANT, the following two paragraphs are critical for installing a solid
pivot-pin :
The hole in the unmodified factory tube is 3/16" slip-fit on the left side
and 3/16" press-fit on the right side. This solid pin requires a 3/16" slip-fit
on both sides. A standard 3/16" drill bit can be used to enlarge the hole to
the correct size. The hole on the left side is usually large enough to fit the
drill bit to line up straight with the right side to keep them aligned
correctly. The sharp edges of the holes inside the tube should be deburred
after drilling to avoid damaging the valve and piston seals. This can be done
with a small round hobby file or a 2" x 2" piece of 300-400 grit sandpaper
rolled tightly into a tube to use as a file. Insert the file through the
outside of the hole at an angle and file lightly around the inside edge until
it is dull all the way around, do this to both holes, then file or sand the
inside surface around the holes reaching in from the front of the tube to make
sure everything is smooth. Do not remove a lot of metal, just enough to dull
the sharp edge and smooth the internal area around the holes.
Some tubes have the pivot-pin holes further back than others. Older tubes
tended to have them closer to the front of the tube, newer tubes tend to have
them back further which causes the barrel band holes to be slightly off-center
too far forward) for the pivot pin to fit through easily. With the factory
roll-pin you can simply force the pin through and it will compress to fit. With
this solid pin you may have to file the front of the tube back slightly until
the holes align. This is very easy to do, only a few file strokes are needed in
most cases, a few dozen in other cases. Be very careful to keep filings out of
the tube where they can cause damage to the seals and valve, stuffing a piece
of rag into the tube before starting this work and removing it afterwards helps
keep filings and grit out of the tube, flushing the tube out with rubbing
alcohol is a good idea also, the best way is to remove all parts from the tube
so it can be cleaned and reassembled correctly afterwards.